November 03, 2003
Half a Review, Chickenbone Cafe
Its only half a review cause I've only ate one item... Place is called Chickenbone Cafe. Its a pretty good representation of a whole new layer of gentrification in Williamsburg but I'm avoiding that issue for a while, messy and cliched at the same. Some other time, maybe.
Went for the first time on Thursday, got the Cuban sandwich. Dreamed about it all weekend. Was back last night for another, plus the ricotta, pine nut, maple desert, which is fabulous and pretty unique as well. Remember something vaguely similar at a high end Indian years ago and that's it...
One annoyance. Sat at the bar both times. First time I ordered a pint of dark beer and sipped slowly, went to the bathroom, went out for a phone call. 40 minutes pass, no Cuban. Finish the beer and order a second. Bingo, a sandwich.
Second visit, order a light beer, came in a 12 ounce mug. Bartender forgot the water. First beer was gone in a flash. Quickly get halfway through the second and the Cuban arrives. "Sorry for the 'delay' we made it extra big because it took so long". Hmmmmm
Regardless, the Cuban gets caps cause its spectacular. Salty, juicy, with hits of garlic and superb long thin slices of pickles laced throughout. Its not an even mix and that's a good thing. There are maybe 4 or 5 flavors to the sandwich each emerging in its own bite. Sometimes its the salty meat, others the blast of garlic sauce, then the pickles might take a turn. Delirious. I'm not in the habit of dreaming of sandwiches, but damn this thing is good.
One economic oddity of the space. The Cuban is a "special" although indications are that its permanent. Its also significantly more expensive then anything on the menu. Perhaps it really costs more to make. But all indications are that it costs more because its more popular, not because the cost of the ingredients and labor. Now more popular restaurants often charge more as a whole, supply and demand and all. But its pretty rare for a restaurant to implement a popularity rather then commodity based pricing within its own menu.
Everyone's got to make their money no doubt, but its an odd statement isn't it? Imagine a restaurant that charged more for the burger then the lobster just because it got a write up as best burger spot.
In the end though whatever, if I'm going to dream about this Cuban I'm going to buy it. Hope the cheaper items taste that good...
and yeah the info:
177 South 4th Street, Williamsburg Brooklyn, 718.302.2663
opens at 4pm till late, possibly cash only
Comments
I'm glad not to be the only one with a thing for Cuban sandwiches. I had an amazing one at Chez Henri, 1 Shepard Street, Cambridge, MA. The most expensive sandwich I've ever eaten, but also the best. Comes with fried plaintain chips - mmm.
Ray's Marlin Beach Bar & Grill at 5121 Butler St. in Pittsburgh also has a pretty good one, but it's Chez Henri that takes the prize.
Posted by: chad | November 4, 2003 12:07 AM
Thanks for the clue and review. I must try a Cuban Sandwich...
Posted by: Gary | November 4, 2003 01:04 PM
yeah, me too. anyone know where i can get a good one in seattle or portland?
Posted by: klint | November 4, 2003 09:54 PM
man good luck its hard enough finding good ones in NY. Two favs (other then gourmet chickenbone cafe one)
Spot on Broome and Bway looking completely out of place in todays Soho.
Tiny storefront on 13th just west of 1rst Ave.
Heard the best ones are in Jersey. And Miami of course...
Posted by: Abe | November 4, 2003 10:08 PM
Hi: It's Zini from chickenbone. I am so glad you love the cubano. It really is more expensive to make! We use organic pork from this guy in Vermont, good proscuitto, Tom Cat bread, but the real killer is the Boerrenkasse. It's an aged imported gouda and I think it's the icing on the Cubano. (I have never really had one, cause ironically I am a veg, but my partner swears the Boerrenkasse makes the sandwich). We've tried aged goudas from Vermont to bring the cost down but haven't found one that has quite the kick of the boerrenkasse. Sorry it took so long to get your sandwich, but our whole kitchen is what you see when you come to the place. It's the two toaster ovens, the four burners and the one oven. So sometimes when we get busy it is slow. It's an ongoing problem that I'm trying to solve, (without building a whole, huge expenseive kitchen that would just make us have to raise prices)
anyway all the cheap stuff on the menu is really great, I love the cannellini bruschetta and the veggie sandwich and everyone says the Viet sausage and salmon rock, so explore, enjoy and say hi next time you come in. Thanks again for taking the time to write about us. Zini
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